Floater frames work for two main artwork categories: stretched canvas and rigid panels. Both pair beautifully with a floater profile, but the install method is different for each, and the frame setup varies depending on the substrate's thickness and material.
This guide walks through canvas, wood and gatorboard panels, and aluminum and synthetic panels — covering how each installs, what to look for at order, and which adhesive or fastening method to use.
A quick note on paper artwork: Floater frames are not for paper. Watercolors, prints, drawings, and photographs on paper all need glass or acrylic glazing for protection, and floater frames are open at the front by design. For paper artwork, use a traditional frame with glass instead. The rest of this guide assumes your artwork is on a rigid substrate.
Why substrate matters for floater frames
A floater frame is designed to hold a rigid substrate with a finished edge. The artwork sits inside the frame at a slight recess from the front face (about 1/8"), creating the floating shadow line. Two things have to be true: the artwork must be rigid enough to support itself without sagging, and its edges must be clean and presentable because they remain fully visible.
Canvas and panel artwork both meet these conditions — but they mount differently inside the frame.
Floater frames for stretched canvas
Stretched canvas is the most common substrate for floater frames, and the pairing is essentially purpose-built. The wooden stretcher bars give the canvas a rigid edge, and the painted edges — whether wrapped around or stopped at the front — read as part of the work.
Articient builds floater frames in three depth categories to fit the standard canvas thicknesses:
- Shallow floater frames — designed for 3/4" canvas
- Standard floater frames (1.5"–1.75" deep) — designed for 1.5" gallery-wrap canvas, the most common canvas depth. The majority of our floater profiles fall in this category.
- Deep floater frames — designed for 2" canvas
When the frame depth matches your canvas, the canvas sits at the correct recess from the front face of the frame automatically — no spacer is needed. The frame ships with pre-drilled holes and screws, and the canvas mounts directly to the stretcher bars in about five minutes, using the Canvas Alignment Kit to center the artwork.
A spacer comes into play only when you want to put a thinner canvas into a deeper frame for aesthetic reasons — for example, framing a 3/4" canvas in a standard-depth profile because you like the look. In that case, we build a spacer to lift the canvas to the correct recess.
Use a floater frame for canvas if:
- The painted edge is finished, whether wrapped or stopped at the side
- You want the full painting visible without a frame overlap
For canvas-specific guidance, see our existing articles on floater frames for 3/4" canvas and 1.5" deep canvas floater frames.
Browse our complete floater frames for canvas collection.
Floater frames for cradled panels and wood
Panel artwork — cradled birch, maple, masonite, and similar wood substrates — pairs naturally with floater frames. The rigid substrate handles cleanly, and the panel's painted or printed edge can be the same finish quality as the front.
Installation works differently than canvas. There are no stretcher bars to screw into, so panels are attached to the frame's internal spacer with a small amount of wood glue (Titebond II or similar). The spacer ships pre-attached to the frame, and the panel sits centered on it. A book or other light weight holds the panel in place while the glue sets.
Wood glue works because it bonds well to porous, fiber-based substrates — cradled wood, masonite, hardboard, gatorboard. It does not work for aluminum or synthetic panels (more on that below).
Articient builds spacers for the most common panel thicknesses:
- 1/8" panels — thin masonite, hardboard, and aluminum composite
- 1/4" panels — common cradled wood, gatorboard, thicker composite
- 1/2" panels — deeper cradled wood
- 3/4" and deeper panels — heavy cradled panels matching canvas depth
For a complete step-by-step panel install, see our Floater Frames for Panels guide.
Use a floater frame for panels if:
- The panel is rigid and dimensionally stable (most wood panels qualify)
- The edges are clean and finished
- The panel is between 1/8" and about 2" thick — custom spacers available for thicker
Floater frames for aluminum and direct-print panels
Aluminum panels (Dibond, Alupanel, solid aluminum) and synthetic substrates have become increasingly popular for photography and contemporary print work. They install in floater frames the same way as wood panels — adhered to the spacer — but the adhesive choice is different.
Wood glue will not bond to aluminum or synthetic panels. Aluminum is non-porous, so wood glue has no fiber to grip. It also expands and contracts with temperature changes at a different rate than wood, which means even a momentary bond will fail over time as the materials shift against each other.
For aluminum and synthetic panels, use a neutral-cure silicone adhesive (sometimes labeled "low-modulus" or "neutral cure"). The neutral-cure formulation is important: standard acetic-cure silicone (the kind that smells like vinegar) releases acid as it cures and can damage aluminum and some print coatings over time. Other workable options include two-part epoxy and polyurethane construction adhesives.
Common substrates that need silicone or epoxy (not wood glue):
- Dibond / Alupanel (aluminum composite) — 1/8" to 1/4" common thicknesses
- Solid aluminum — for high-end direct-print artwork
- Acrylic-faced and other synthetic panels — anything non-porous
Gatorboard sits in a middle category — though it has a foam core, the paper face is porous enough for wood glue to grip reliably. Wood glue is fine for gatorboard.
Use a floater frame for these substrates if:
- The substrate is rigid (all aluminum and proper foam-core qualifies)
- The edges are finished — aluminum panels typically come with clean cut edges
A decision tree for picking a frame
When choosing a floater frame setup, work through these questions:
1. Substrate type: → Stretched canvas: continue to step 2 → Cradled wood, masonite, or gatorboard panel: see the wood panels section → Aluminum or synthetic panel: see the aluminum panels section → Paper artwork: use a traditional frame with glass instead
2. Match the frame depth to your canvas: → 3/4" canvas: shallow floater frame → 1.5" canvas (gallery wrap): standard floater frame — most of our range → 2" canvas: deep floater frame → Thin panel or thinner canvas in a deeper frame: any matching profile, with a spacer built to lift the artwork → Over 2": custom-built frame and spacer — contact us at order
3. Choose your finish: → Black, natural wood, gold, silver, champagne, or white — see our floater frame finish guide.
The bottom line
For canvas, match the frame depth to your canvas (shallow, standard, or deep) and the canvas mounts directly to the back of the frame in minutes. For panels, the panel sits on a spacer inside the frame and is secured with the right adhesive for the substrate — wood glue for wood and gatorboard, neutral-cure silicone or epoxy for aluminum and synthetic panels.
Ready to choose? Just select your frame and select your canvas or substrate depth — we'll build the spacer (if needed) to match.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can you use a floater frame for a canvas print? Yes, as long as the print is stretched on a wooden frame like a regular canvas painting. The stretcher bars are what the floater frame holds onto. Canvas prints work the same as painted canvases in a floater frame.
Can a floater frame work for unstretched canvas or canvas mounted to a board? Unstretched canvas can't go in a floater frame — there's no rigid structure to fasten to. Canvas mounted to a rigid board (gatorboard, foam-core, or aluminum) works the same as a panel — adhered to the frame's spacer with the appropriate adhesive.
Can I put a print under glass inside a floater frame? No — floater frames are open at the front and don't accept glass. If your print needs glazing, use a traditional gallery frame with glass instead.
Can a floater frame hold 3D or textured artwork? Yes, if the substrate is rigid. Heavy texture, impasto, or relief work all sit fine in a floater frame as long as the back of the substrate is flat and the depth is consistent. For very deep or three-dimensional work, a shadow box may be a better choice.
What's the maximum panel thickness for a floater frame? Articient builds spacers for panels from 1/8" up to about 2" as standard. For panels deeper than 2", contact us at order — we'll build a custom spacer to match.
Do all canvas thicknesses work in the same floater frame? No — Articient builds three frame depth categories matched to canvas thickness: shallow for 3/4", standard (1.5"–1.75" deep) for 1.5" gallery wrap, and deep for 2". Specify your canvas depth at order so the frame is built for your canvas. If you want to put a thinner canvas in a deeper profile (for the look), a spacer can lift the canvas to the correct recess.
Can I use a floater frame for a giclée print mounted to canvas or board? Yes — once mounted to a rigid substrate, a giclée print installs in a floater frame the same as any canvas or panel artwork.
What's the best floater frame for an oil painting? For an oil painting on stretched canvas, any floater frame depth-matched to the canvas works. Finish depends on the work — see our floater frame finish guide for matching guidance.
Can I use a floater frame for an aluminum photo print? Yes — direct-print aluminum is one of the substrates floater frames work especially well with. Important: wood glue will not bond aluminum. Use neutral-cure silicone (not acetic-cure) or a two-part epoxy to attach the panel to the spacer.
